Buttonhole sewing machine



Sept-'3, 1929- F. A. REI-:GE 1,726,922

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed June 5, 1924 9 Sheets-Sheet 1 inve'nTor.4

FrunKln AReece @vf/W2 M2M A'fys.

Sept 3, 1929 F. A. REECE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed June 5, 1924 9Sheets-Sheet 2 .flnvenToTt FrunKiin ALFeeCe byfw; M2M

Se'pt. 3, 1929- F. A. -REECE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed June 3,1924 9 Shee'ts-Sheet 3 l .'-nvenTO'n I `lf-runKlill AReece F. A. REI-:CE

Sept. 3, 1929.

NHOLE SEWING MACHINE BUT 9 Sheets-Sheet 4 led June 3, 1924 .me T.

by/m M2M.

Sept. 3, 1929. F. A. REECE 1,726,922

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed June 3, 1924 9 Sheets-snee?, 5

lnvenTor.

FronKlnAfeec WMM/#M Anys.

9 Shets-Sheet 6 F. A. REECE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed June 5, 1924F1958.

Sept. 3, 1929.

282 gas Spt, 1929. F A .REECE BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed June 5,1924 9 Sheets-sheer '7 lnvenTor. FrunKln A-Reece Ays.

Sept. 3, 1929. F. A. REI-:CE 1,726,922

BUTToNHoLE SEWING MACHINE Filed June 3, 1924 9 sheets-sheet 8 Sept. 3,1929. E A REECE 1,726,922

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed June 5, 1924 9 sheets-sheet 9 '4 m19;Figzo. m21. Page@ 550 FmnKlin A. Reece bym QMM Patented Sept. 3, 1929.

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FRANKLIN A. RECE, OF BROOKLINE, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE annuaBUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSAOHUSETTS, A .CORPORA-BUTTONHOLE SEWNG MACHINE.

Tron or MAINE.

Application led June 3,

This invention relatesto buttonhole 'sew-K 10 ing `part of whichrotation it operates to give the work a feeding movement for forming theedge stitches along thev side of the buttonhole and during the remainderof which rotation it operates or controls barring mechanism for formingthe bar at the end of the buttonhole. trated in said patent andapplication also has two separate feed devices for actuatin the cam, oneof which feeds the vcam witg a relatively slow movement while the latterlis feeding the :work and the other of which feeds the cam forwardlywith a more rapid movement during the formation of the barring stitches.

One feature of my present invention re?` lates to an improved means forfeeding the main cam during the formation of the barring stitches sothat said cam is always under positive control and all its movements aresynchronized with the movements of the stitch-forming mechanism.

Such cam-controlling means is also constructed so that although it movesthe cam4 forward intermittently during the formation of the barringstitches yet it positively brings the cam to rest at the end of eachforward movement and also positively ensures that the cam will always beat a predetermined point at the completion of the barring stitches andat the. time when the stitch-forming mechanism changes lfrom barringstitches t0 edge stitches.

Another feature of my present invention relates to an improved barringmechanism which is constructed so that bars of different types can bemade merely by effecting different' adjustments in the parts. Stillanother feature of the invention relates to an improved construction bywhich the center of oscillation of the needle bar carrier always has apredetermined position relative to the stitches being formed, whetherthese stitches are edge stitches or barring stitches.

The device illus- 1924. vserial No. 717,643.

Qtherfeatures of my invention relate kto various improvements inbuttonhole sew.- ing machines of this type all as 'will be more fullyhereinafter s et forth.

In order to give an understanding of the invention I have illustrated inthe drawings a selected `embodiment thereof which will now be describedafter which the novel features will be pointed out in the appendedIclaims.

Fig. 1 is a vertical sectional view of a sewing machine embodying myinvention;

, Fig. 2 is al1-under side view thereof;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged section on substantially the line 3 8, Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a detail view showing the driving mechanism for operating thecam during the barring stitches. v Fig. 5 is a section on the line 5 5,Fig. 4;

`Fig. 6 is a view showing the devices'for feeding lthe cam during theformation of the yside stitches;

Fig. 7 is. a section on the line 7-7, 'Fig'. 6;

Fig. 8 is a sectional detail view of the clutch by which the high speeddriving element is clutched to the main shaft;

Fig. 9 is a section on the line 9-9, Fi 10; F ig. 10 is a section .onthe line 10-10,

Figs. 11, 12 and 13 are detail views of the stop mechanism;

Fig. 14, is a sectional view through the clutch by which the buttonholecutter is operated; i

Fig. 15 is aA fragmentary detail view of the needle bar carrier -showingthe latter in front elevation;

Fig. `16 is a perspective sectional view showing ythe clutch forclutching the drivinpulley 114 to the sha-ft 14;

d 1g. 17 is aperspective view of the clutch Fig. 18 isa detail view of'the'controlling Alever v127;

Figs. 19, 20, 21 and 22 are diagrammatic views showing differentpositions of the parts duringthe formation of the button-hole;

Fig. 23 is a development of the main cam.

Fig. 24 is a diagrammatic view showing one type of barring stitch whichmay be formed with this machine. i

ica

Referring now to the drawings 1 indicates generally the frame ofvthemachine on which the operative parts are supported. The work in whichthe buttonhole is to be sewed is `retained in work-holding means hereinshown in'the form of a clamp plate 2 and work clamps 3 by which the workis clamped against the plate.- This work-holding means is slidablymounted in ways 4 formed in the bed plate portion of the frame and it isgiven a back and forth movement during the forming of the side stitcheson the buttonhole.

The stitch-forming mechanism herein shown is similar to thatillustratedin my patent and application and comprises a needle 5 operating abovethe work and a rotary hook or shuttle 6 operating beneath the work. Theneedle is supported by a needle bar 7 which reciprocates in a needle barcarrier 8 and which derivesits vertical reciprocation from a crank 9 onthe end of a horizontal shaft 10 which is geared at 1l l to a verticalshaft 12, the latter in turn being geared at 13 to the main drive shaft14. The rotary hook is operated om the vertical shaft 12 through a shaft15 which is geared to said shaft 12 by gearing 16.

The needle has a jogging movement so that alternate thrusts are at theslit of the buttonhole and the other thrusts ata distance back from theslit. For this purpose the needle carrier- 8 is pivoted at 9 and isconnected through suitable connections which will be hereinafterdescribed to a 'has formed'in it a plurality of cam grooves 23, 24, 25and 26. The cam groove 23 is that which controls the feeding movement ofth work and the cam grooves 24, 25 are those which control the barringoperation.`

The meansfor feeding the work herein shown is similar to thatillustrated in lmy above-mentioned patent and application and comprisesan elbow lever 26 pivoted at 27 to the bed plate and having an arm 28provided with a roll 29 that operates in the feed cam groove 23, theother arm 30 of said lever bein slotted and being adjustably connectedby a link 31 to the clamp plate 2. This cam groove 23 is provided withthe incline portions 32 which cause a swinging movement of the lever 26and thereby a feeding movement of the work during the formation of theedge stitches 34 and with a straight portion 33 which holds the workstationary during the formation of the barring stitches.

This machine is constructed to make bars `of different types dependingon the shape and contour of the cam grooves and upon the mechanismconnecting said cam grooves with the needle carrier. The constructionherein shown is specially adapted to form a bar of the type shown inFig. 24 and which consists of one or more short stitches 36 of the samelength as the edge stitches 34 but which are situated centrally of thebuttonhole and one or more longer stitches 35 also situated centrally ofthe buttonhole but of a length considerably longer than the short stitch36.

The machine is also constructed so that at all times during thestitching on a buttonhole the center of oscillation of the needlecarrier 8 will have the same relation to the stitches being formed. Inmaking the buttonhole shownin Fig. 24, for instance, the center of thebarring stitches are in the center line of the buttonhole indicated bythe line 39 and the center of the edge stitches on 'the sides of thebuttonhole are in the lines indicated at 37 and 38. y,With the presentmachine the center of oscillation of the needle bar carrier has the sameposition relative to the center line 39 of the buttonhole while thebarring stitches are being formed as it has to the center line 37 whilethe` edge stitches 34 at the right of the buttonhole are beingformedsand said center of oscillation further has the same relativeposition to the line 38 while the stitches 34 on the left hand side ofthe buttonhole are being formed as it has to the line 37 when thestitches 34 on the right hand side of the buttonhole are being formed.

While dierent desired constant relations V may be established betweenthe center of oscillation of the needle carrier and the center of thestitches being formed I have herein shown a construction wherein thiscenter of oscillation is at all times in the center line of the stitchesso that when the side stitches 34 on the right hand side of -thebuttonhole are being formed the center tion of the needle carrier andthis is con structed so that when the stitches 34 on the right hand sideof the buttonhole have been formed this center o-f oscillation will beshifted to the center of the buttonhole for the formation of the barringstitches at one end of the buttonhole and when the barring stitches arecompleted the center of oscillation will be again shifted into thecenter line 'of the stitches on the other side of the buttonhole. Thecam groove 25 in the main cam is that which controls the change from theshort barring stitch to the long barring stitch.

The construction herein shown by which the center of oscillation of theneedle carrier is shifted from the line 37 to the line 39'and from theline 39 to the line 38 is somewhat similar to the barring mechanismillustrated in my above-mentioned patent and application. i The needlecarrier 8 is pivotally mounted in two blocks 40 that are slidabletransversely in ways -41 formed in the frame. b

These blocks have connected thereto a toggle device in the form.of twotoggle links 42, 43, the link 42 being pivotally connected to the blocksand the link 43 being pivotally connected to the frame at 44.l Bystraightening or breaking the toggle device 42, 43 the blocks 40 areshifted tr sversely in their ways and by this means the needle carrieris `shifted bodily thereby shifting bodil the center about `which saidcarrier osci lates. The toggle device 43, 44 is connected by a -liiik 45to a lever 46 secured. to a vertical shaftv 47, the latter having an arm48 thereon rigid therewith which carries a roll 49 that operates in thecam groove 24.

The cam groove 24 is formed with four straight portions 50, 5l, 52 and53 which are connected by inclined portions 54, 55, 56 and" l57respectively. Two of these inclined portions are in one direction andtwo in the other.

' The roll 49 is traveling in the straight portions 50, 51, 52, 53 whileboth the side stitches and the barring stitches are being formed and theinclined portions 54, 55, 56 and 57 operate to shift the center ofoscillation of the needle carrier after the edge stitches on eachside'have been -formed and aft-er the barring stitches at each end havebeen formed. This is illustrated graphically in Figs.A 19 to 22. Fig.\19 illustrates diagrammatically the position of the needle carrier,toggle device 42, 43 and lever 46 during the formation of the edgestitches 34 on the side of the buttonhole that is stitched first. Atthis time the roll 49 is traveling inthe straight portion 50 of the cam,which, it will be noted, is of the same length as the inclined feeding1porti-on 32 of the feeding cam groove 23. t this time the center 9 ofoscillation'of the -needle carrier is in the cen.

ter line of the row of stitches being formed v or in the line 37 Fig.24.

Durin the time that the stitches 34 on the side of t e buttonhole arebeing formed the roll 29 of the feeding lever 26 is operating in the.inclined portion 32 of the cam groove 23 thus gradually feeding thework, and the main cam 22 is being fed forwardly by the slow speeddriving mechanism. After the edge stitches 34 are completed then theroll 29 passes from the inclinedportion 32 into the straight portion 33thus maintaining the work-holding means stationary while the barringstitches 35, 36 arev being formed. During the formation of the barringstitches 35, 36 the main cam 22 is actuatedby another dri-ving mechanismwhich feeds the cam forward at a faster rate and during the time ,thatit is moving forward at the higher speed it is positively fed in timedrelation with the reciprocation of the needle bar. During this positivefeeding of the cam in timed relation with the reciprocation of theneedle ar the centerl of oscillation of the needle carrier is shiftedfrom the line 37 to the line 39 and the barring stitches are formed andthen the center of oscillation is shifted to the line 38 at thekothersidey of the buttonhole at which -time the cam is again actuated by theslowlspeed driving mechanism for forming plhe stitches 34 at the otherside of the button- When the edge stitches on oneside of the buttonholeare completedthe roll 49 passes through the short inclined portion 56 ofthe cam groove 24 thus shifting the lever 46 slightly into the positionshown in Fig. 20. This will break the toggle lever 43, 44 to a greaterextent and thus move the blocks 40 laterally in Fig. 3 which will resultin shifting the center 9 of oscillation of the needle carrier into thecenter line 39 of the buttonhole. The roll'49 then passes into thestraight portion53 of the cam groove 24 thus holding the parts in thisposition 'and while center 9 of oscillation of the needle carrier whenthe stitches on both sides of the buttonhole have been completed theroll 49 passes into the short inclined portion 54 of the groove 24 thusshifting the lever 46 into the position shown in Figs. 2O and 22andbringing the center of oscillation into the center CII y:so

,.5- erating in this groove 25 is a roll 65 Carriedline 39 of thebuttonhole. Thebarring stitches 35 and 36 on the last end of thebuttonhole are thenformed, this being done while the roll 49 istravelling in the straight portion 51 of the cam groove. When thesestitches are formed the roll 49 passes into the short inclined portion55 thus again shifting the lever 46 into the position shown in Fig. 19and bringing the center of oscillation into the center line 37.

Where the long and short barring stitches 35 and 36 are desired Ipropose to use the connection between the switch .cam and the needlecarrier which is illustrated best .in Fig. 3. f

The arm 18 which carries the follower 20 that is actuated by the switchcam, is connected by a link 58 to a rocking member 59 that is pivoted at60 to the frame 1. T\his rocking member 59 is in turn connected to theneedle carrier by a link 61. The pivotal connection between the link 61and the rocking member 59 is adjustable so that said connection may bemoved further from or nearer to the center 60 of oscillation, thereby to'vary the amplitude of movement given the -needle carrier by theoscillatory movement of the lever 18 which, it will be remembered, has alixed amplitude of movement.

For this purpose the member 59 is shown as having' a slotted arm orextension 62 in the slot 63 of which the pivotal connection 64 betweenthe link and the member 59 is received. When the link 6l is in theposition shown in full lines Fig. 3 at the lower end of the slot theneedle carrier will have a minimum amplitude of oscillation but if thearm 61 is swung into the `'dotted line position'Fig. 3 then the needlecarrier 'will have an increased amplitude of movement.

During the formation of the edge stitches 34 on the buttonhole andtheformation of the short barring stitches 36 the link 61 is in theposition shown in full lines Fig. 3. When the long barring stitches 35are to be formed the -link Y61 is swung into its dotted line positionFig.'l 3 thus giving the needle carrier the long amplitude of movementsufficient to form these long stitches 35. This is accomplished by thecam groove 25. Op-

by a lever or arm 66 rigidwith a rockshaft 6 the latter having fastthereon an arm or lever 68, the end of which is adapted to engage theend of the link 61. This arm 68 is formed with a curved surface 181which engages a roll 182 carried by the link 61 so f that when the lever68 is swung into the dotted line position Fig. 3 the link 61 will bemoved to the end of the slot) 63 as shown in, dotted lines. The curvedsurface 181 is formed on a radius struck from the center 60 when themember 68`is in the dotted line position Fig. 3, and the reason for thisis so that when` the parts are in said dotted line line position whenthe lever 68 is returnedk to full line position and in lthe presentconstruction this return spring is connected to the curved end 69 ofthearm 68. The movement of the arm or lever 68 from the full t the dottedline position and vice versa is secured by the cam groove 25.

It will be noted that this cam groove is straight throughout the greaterportion of itslength but it has the two curved portions 71. When theroll 65 enters either of the portions 71 the lever 68 is swung into the,dotted line position Fig. 3 thereby shifting the link 61 from its fulltothe dotted line position and holding it there until the long barringstitches 35 have been formed, after which the lever,I 68 is returned toits normalV ates to produce one or more short barring stitches 36V andthen one or more longer barring stitches 35. This form of bar is ad-vvantageous because the short barring stitches act to tie the sides ofthe buttonhole together at the endof the slit and the long barringstitches reinforce this and also form a proper finish to th`ebuttonhole.

The construction herein shown provides for making .a buttonhole with theside stitches 34 of greater or less length. This is accomplished byproviding an adjustable connection between the link 58 and the lever' 18whereby the amplitude of movement of the needle carrier may be varied.The lever. 18 is slotted as shown at 72 and the pivotal connection 73between the link and lever is adjustable in the slot. An'adjustment-away from the center 19 of oscillationwill length` en the stitches 34while any adjustment in the opposite direction will shorten theAstitches.

It is obvious that when the stitches 34 are 4increased in length the twocenter lines 37,

one, said lever having a slot 74 in which the pivotal connection 7 5'isadjustably received. By adjusting this connection 75 awayI from thccenter of oscillation 47 theI movement of -the lever 46 will produce a,greater movement in the.toggledevice` 42, 43 and thus a greater movementof. the center 9 of .oscillation of the needle carrier, while adjustingthe pivotal connection 75 toward the center of oscillation 47 willproduce shorter shifting movement of the,` needle carrier. The

, connection 75 will, therefore, be adjusted in the slot-74 tocorrespond to the length of the stitches 34.'4

Whenever the adjustment Vof the parts is changed in making the changefrom a buttonhole having short edge stitches 34 to one having long edgestitches by shifting the:

pivotal connections 7 3 and 75 it is necessary that during suchshifting-the center of oscillation should be moved out slightly so thatit` will be automatically. brought into the center line of the longerstitches 34. To accomplish this I haveherein shown the followingconstruction.

The slot 74 is formed on the arc of a circle struck from the centermidwayfbetw'een the center 9 of oscillation of the needle carrier andthe axis 44 of the arm 43 so that if the gle lever. The link 42 islonger than the link 43 so that the pivotal point at which said linksare connected is oii'set slightly from the center of the curve 74, or inother words the curve 74 will then be slightly eccentric to the pivotalconnection between' the links\42, .43. Where this construction isemployed a shifting movement of the pivotal connection 75- toward theouter end of the slot 74 will result in straightening the toggle device42, 43

y slightly thus moving the center ,of oscillation of the needle carrieroutwardly. This l eccentric relation is so designed that-when 'theconnection 75 is yproperly positioned in lthe slot 74 for a buttonholehaving edge stitches 34 of any) predetermined length the center ofoscillation of the needle will always be located in the center line ofsaid edge stitches.

I have stated above that the main cam 22 is driven from the shaft 14 bytwo separate driving mechanisms, one of which operates while the edgestitches 34 are bemg formed and the other of which operates while thebarring stitches are being formed, all as shown in my above-mentionedpatent and application. The feed device which actuates the main camduring the formation of the edge stitches 34 is illustrated in Figs. 6and 7. The shaft14 has mounted thereon an eccentric 76, the eccentricstrap 77 of which has an arm 78 rigid therewith which is pivotallyconnected at 79 to a ball clutch de- -vice. This comprises a clutchmember 8O loosely mounted on theshaft 81 on which the ,cam 22 is mountedand having a plurality of pockets 82 with inclined faces 83, which,

pockets receive clutch balls 84 that are acted on by suitable sprin s85. These balls e gage the interior of t e cam 22.

When the clutch member 80 moves clockwise in Fig. 6 the balls will beineffective but Iwhen it is moved anti-clockwise the balls serve in awell known way to clutch the mem- 'ber 80 to the cam drum and thusmoveit forward. This makes an intermttently-acti I ing clutch by which thedrum 22 is stepped forward intermittently. l The eccentricity of theeccentric 76 may be adjusted in the manner illustrated in my pat'- entand application by means of an adjusting; member 86 slidabl mountedonthe shaft 14' and having an inc ined portion 87 extending axiallythrough the eccentric. This member 86 is controlled by a lever 88pivoted at 89 to the frame, one end, of the lever being forked andengagingl in theV groove 90 formed in the member 86. This feed device isconstructed to give the cam 22 a relativel slow feeding movementnecessary for the ormation of the edge stitches 34. vThe other feedmotion by which the cam is fed forwardduring the formation of thebarring stitches 1s arranged to feed the cam faster and 1t 'also has thecharacteristic that it not only positively feeds the cam forward at eachstep but also positively maintains the cam at all times in timedrelation with the reciprocations of the needle and further positivelybrings the cam to rest at the end of each step. As a result the cam 22will invariably have a predeterminedposition at the tlme that thebarring stitches are completed and the change is made from barring toedge stitches. This feedmechani'sm is best shown in Figs. 4 and 5.

The shaft 14 has fast on it an eccentric 91, "i

cam drum 22. This rocking member has also f pivotally mounted thereon at98 a stop 99 adapted -to engage ratchet teeth 100 formedY on theinteriorI of the cam. The ratchet teeth 100 are disposed oppositely toPawl lthe ratchett'eeth 97, and, therefore, when CII both pawls 96 and99 engage-theirpratchet teeth as shown in Fig. 4 thecam drum ispositively locked tothe oscillating member 95. This is the position ofthe parts when the cam' 22 is being moved forwardly by the pawl 96.

When the rocking member 95 comes to rest at the end of its forwardmovement and the eccentric has passed its dead center the pawl -99 islifted out of engagement with its teeth 100 so that when the member 95starts its backward movement said pawl 99 is released. This isaccomplished by the `following means.

Pivotally 4mounted on the shaft 81 is a sleeve 101 having a lug 102adapted to engage a projection 103 extending from the locking pawl 99.This sleeve 101 has also an arm 104 extending therefrom, the end 0fwhich enters into a recess 105 formed in the member 93 and is acted onby a thrust pin 106 which carries at its inner end a roll 107 thatengages a cam face 108 formed on the eccentric 91. This cam face is so`disposed that when the eccentric has moved the rocking member 95forwardly to the limit of its movement the high portion of the cam 108will engage 'the roll 107 and move the thrust pin 106 to the right Fig.4 thus turning the sleeve 101 against the action of the spring 109 andacting through the lug 102 and projection 103 to rock the locking pawl99 into the dotted line position. This disengages it from the ratchetteeth 100 so that the rocking member 95 will be free to move backwardlywithout giving any backward movement to the cam 22. When the eccentric91 is moving to the left Fig. 4 and the parts are ready for anotherforward movement, then the roll 107 passes onto the low portion of thecam' 108 and the spring 109 returns the sleeve 101 to the position shownin Fig. 4while the spring 110 will throw the pawls 96 and 99 intoengagement with their Vrespective ratchet teeth thus locking the camdrum 22 positively to the rocking member 95, and'placing the parts inposition for the next forward movement.

The ratchet teeth 97 and 100 extend only partially around the interiorof the cam drum 22, the latter having smooth faces 111 and 112 withwhich the pawls engage while the edge Istitches-on the buttonholearebeing formed. So long as the pawls 96 and 99 are operating on the smoothsurfaces 111 and 112 the oscillating `movement of the carrier 95 willhave no effect in feeding the cam drum, this being the time during whichthe cam is fed by the slow feed device shown in Fig. 6. When the edgestitches have been completed, however, the cam has been brought intoposition so thatit is fed forward by the pawl 96 and during each forwardmovement the cam is locked positively to the member495 by the dog 99 sothat the cam will be positively moved forward a predetermined amount ateach forward movement of the member 95 and will be brought to rest whensaid member 95 reaches the limit of its movement and just before itstarts its return movement. The cam 22, therefore, is not onlypositively fed forward but is absolutely prevented from overrunning anyat any forward step. It will be noted that at each forward step the camis stepped forward a distance equal to the space between two ratchetteeth 97 and that the amplitude ofl movement of the pawl 96 is equal tothe distance between the ratchet teeth. The pawl 96 steps the camforward one step for each barring stitch and, therefore, the number ofbarring stitches which is formed is determined by the number of theratchet teeth 97, there being the same number of barring stitches on thebuttonhole as there are ratchetv teeth 97 on the cam.

It will, therefore, always be invariably positioned at apredeterminedpoint at the end of the barring operation, which is an import-antfeature because each forward movement of the cam during the barringoperation is much greater than it is during the formation of the edgestitches and if the cam were not always accurately positioned at the endof the barring operation or if there was any tendency for the cam tooverrun said cam might-be improperly positioned for forming the first ofthe edgev stitches on the ,buttonhole Another advantage which is gainedby the luse of the pawls 96, 99 and their ratchet teeth 1s that duringthe entire time between the formation of the edge stitches on one sideof the buttonhole and the edge stitches on the other side of thebuttonhole the cam 22 is being` positively fed in absolute timedrelation with the reciprocationsy ofthe needle with no possibility ofany slippage occurring which will in any way disarrange such timedrelation. It will be noted that all of the relative positions of thework and the needle between the time that the edge stitches on oppositesides of the buttonhole are being formed are under the control of themain cam and by having the main cam thus positively .driven in absolutetimed relation with the needle it is possible to use the same camVV forforming the edge stitches and the barring stitches and, with theabsolute certainty that the barring stitches will be always properlyformed and the shifting of the work will occur always at the time thatthe needle is withdrawn therefrom. 4

This machine is intended for high speed operation and in order to bringthe machine to rest at the end of each cycle of operations with an easymovement and without undue shock or jarl have provided a novel drivingand stoppingl mechanism which comprises shown in one driving member foroperatingthe vmamechanism including the pulley 113 and the v low speeddrive mechanism the pulley 114, the latter being driven at a slower" seed than the former. The clutch for clutc in the high s ed belt pulley113 to the shaft lis igs. 8, 9 and 10. This comprises an internalexpanding clutch ring 115 which is mounted on, a stud- 116 carried bythe pulley 113 and which is adapted to frictionally engage an interiorfriction surface 117 formed on a member 118 that is fast to the shaft14. The clutch member 115 is normal- `ment with the clutch surface 117by with a ly held in its contracted position by a spring 119 and it isexpanded into clutching engagea cam member 120 mounted on astud 121'?that is carried by the pulley. This stud has a lever 122 rigid therewithcarrying an adjustable' 122 and thus turning the cam 120 and expandingthe clutch ring 115 into clutching.

engagement with the clutch 118.

yThe controlling lever 127 is held in its inoperative positionnormallyby a stop 129 which has connected thereto a finger piece projectingabove the bed platey and by which the operator may disconnect the stop129 from `the end ofthe lever 127, IThe lever is shifted and the clutchis thrown by springs 130 which are shown as acting against a slide 131mounted in Ways 132cm the frame and connected to the end of the lever127 by means of a dlink 133. The machina-therefore, is started inoperation by the operator depressingthe finger piece which releases thestop 129 from the lever 127 thus` allowing the springs 130 to clutch thehigh speed pulley 113 to the shaft.

The low speed pulley 114 is clutched, to the shaft by means of a deviceshown in Figs. 11

- sition.'

and 12. The member 118, which, it will `be remembered is keyed to thedrive shaft14,

has a clutch dog 134 pivoted thereto at 135.

This dog is provided with a lateral clutch projection 136 which isadapted to engage a shoulder 137 formed on a member 138 that isassociated with the slow speed driving pulley 114. The clutch dog 134 isacted on by a spring 139 -which normally holds the clutch projection136i in position to engage the shoulder 137 and when said projection isin engagement with the shoulder as shown in Fig. 11 the rotation` of themember 138 is communicated through the clutch dog 134, and member 118and therethrough to the shaft 14. The member 138 is yieldingly connectedto the pulley 114. This member g has a lateral extension 140 extendinginto a recess 141 formed in said face of the pulley and this pro'ectionis situated betweentwo springs 142 vt at are located in spring-receivingrecesses 143 formed in the side face of the pulley. The ends of thesprings rest against a partition wall 144. The rotation of the pulley114 is.therefore, communicated to the member 138 throughV one of thesprings 142 thus making a yielding drive.

When the machine has come to rest.- at the end of a cycle of movementsthe clutch dogl 134 is held in its inoperative position by means of a;stop member 145 which is in the form of a pinfearried by a housing 146secured to the slide 131, sald pin being backed by a spring 147. Whenthe machine is started in operation by the shifting of the slide 131 to'the right Fig, 2 the stop pin 145 is withdrawn from engagement with thetail 148 of the clutch dog 134 and the spring 139 then throws the latterinto operative po- It will be remembered that this movement of the slide131 serves to actuate the high s eed clutch thereby connecting the highsp'ee pulley 113' to the shaft 14' so that the'latter is operated at ahigh speed. It will also be remembered that the pulley 114 is rotatingat. a slower rate of speed than the pulley 113. f

The clutch dog 134 is pivotally carried by the member 118 which is faston the shaft and, therefore, so lona as the high speed clutch is inoperation t 1e clutch dog 134 will lbe rotating at the same speed as thepulleyV 113, Since the pulley 114 is rotating at a slower rate ofspeedthe clutch dog 134 will travel' `fa"ster than the clutch shoulder137 which rotates with the slow speed pulley 114 and thus the clutch dogwill overrun the clutch projection. 'the slow speed clutch isineffective.

In order to prevent. any clicking noise which may result from the clutchprojection 136 riding over the shoulder 137 during this overrunnin'gmovement the clutch do is so designed that at the high speed at whichthe pulley 113 is operating the centrifugal force Under theseconditionsv on the end of the dog carrying the projection 136 issufficient to overcome the tension of the s' ring 139V and thus theclutch dog will be t rown by centrifugal force outwardly into aninoperative'position in which the projection 136 travels in la pathoutslde of the clutch shoulder 137.

The stopping of the machine is cont-rolled by a stop cam 149 formed onthe cam member 22, said stop cam operatmg on a projection` 150 on thecontrolling lever 127. This sto cam is formed with the two rises 186 an187 separated by ,a straight portion 1 88. As the cycle of operation isapproaching its end the rise 186 engages the projectlon 150 on the lever127 and gives said lever a slight movement which lis sufficient to carrythe slide 131 from the extreme right position Fig. 2 into the dottedline position. When in this position the clutch actuator 125 has beenmoved into a position to allow the clutch 115 to be released by itsspring 119 so that the high speed driving pulley 113 is freed from theshaft 14'and the machine will continue to rotate by its own momentum. Assoon as the vhigh speed clutch pulley 113 has been thus disengaged fromthe driving shaft the machine will immediately begin to slow down andthus the centrifugal force acting on the clutch dog 134 will becorrespondingly lessened. When the machine has slowed down to apredetermined point this centrifugal force will be insufficient toovercome the tensionl of the spring 139 and the latterI willautomatically swing the clutch dog 134 into its operative position withthe clutch projection 136 in engagement with the shoulder137. The slowspeed driving pulley 114 is thus automatically coupled to the shaft 14and said shaft will be driven positively by the pulley 114. This takesplace during the formation of the last few stitches and while the roll150 is*y operating on the straight portion 188 of the stop cam.

When the cam has turned sufliciently so that the rollr 150 engages thesecond inclined portion 187 of the stopcam. then the slide 131 is movedinto this full line position Fig. 2 thus bringing the stop pin 145 intothe -path of movement of the tail 148 of the clutch dog 134 and whenthis position is reached then on the next rotation of the pulley 114said tail of the clutch dog will engage the cushioned stop member 145thus swinging the projection 136 out of engage- *ment with' the shoulder137, which operation disengages the slow speed driving pulley 114 fromthe shaft 14. Since the clutch dog 134 is rotating with the shaft 14Vthe engagement of the tail 148 of the clutch dog with the stop pin 145will not only disengage the rest with a cushioning movement due to thecushioning effect of the spring 147.

With this construction, therefore, the macally connected thereto so thatduring the remainder of the cycle the machine will be driven at a slowspeed and will be positively' driven up to the point at which it isstopped.

By this arrangement the speed of the machine can be slowed down to apredetermined point at the time the stop motion operates regardless ofthe speed at which the machine is normally running and, therefore, thestopping of the machine may be accurately effected with a minimum shockor jar.

There is another advantage resulting from this construction. It Will'benoted that the.

machine is brought to rest just after the barring stitches have beenformed at the last end of the buttonhole and, therefore, while Vthe cam22 is being positively fed forward in y timed relation with thereciprocations of the needle. Because of this positive connection,between the cam 22 and the reciprocations of the neeclle.the slide 131lwill always be moved from the dotted to the full line position Fig. 2 ata predetermined point in the rotation of the main shaft and, therefore,the stopping of the machine will always be accomplished in the uniformmanner.

Another feature involved in this construction is that the spring 130which is used for throwing into operation the clutch which connects thedriving pulley 113 to the shaft 14 is compressed and thus has energystored up therein by the movementof the .main cam. This operation ispermissable because of the fact that the main cam is positivel drivenduring the time that the slide 131 is moved toward the left Fig. 2.

.The machine herein shown also includes a buttonhole cutter for cuttingthe buttonhole, this beingI accomplished after the buttonhole isstitched. Thebuttonhole cutter is indicated at 151 and is actuated bymeans similar to that shown in my patent No. 1,343,337, June 15th, 1920.This cutter is connected to an oscillating member 152 pivoted at 153 andreceiving its actuation from an eccentric 154 carried by a sleeve 162which is loosely mounted on the shaft 14 and is driven from a drivingpulley 155. The eccentric strap 156 of this eccentric is connected to atoggle lever device comprising twoconnected links 157, 1,58, the latterbeing connected to the oscillating member 152 so that when the eccentric154 is given a rotation the buttonhole cutter 151 will be given itscutting movement. clutch but will also bring the shaft 14 to The drivingpulley 155 is continuously operating but the eccentric 154 is normallydisconnected therefrom. It is connected thereto by means of a clutchdevice shown in carried by the main cam 22,`this being s- 50.

Fig. 13 which is similar to that shown in Figs. 11 and 12 and by whichthe low speed 'clutch 114 is connected to the driving shaft rThe drivingpulley 155 has associated therewith a member 184 which is yieldinglyconnected thereto by the springs 182 which lie in a recess formed in thepulley 155 and engage a projection 188 extending from the member 184 andinto the recess, this connection being sin'iilar to the connectionbetween the pulley 114 and the member 188. The member 184 is providedwith a clutch shoulder 159 which co-operates with a clutch dog 161 thatis'pivoted at 163 to a member 185 that is fast on the sleeve 162, whichit will be remembered is loosely mounted on the shaft 14. The clutch doghas a projection 161) which co-operates with the clutch shoulder 159,this dog bcingin all particulars like the clutch dog 134 shown in Fig.17 and being acted on by a spring 186 which normally tends to hold theprojection 160 in engagement with the shoulder159.

During the operation of sewing the buttonhole the clutch dog 161 is heldout of engagement by the fact that the tail 1 64 thereof lengages a stoppin 165 similar to the stop pin 145 as illustrated in Fig. 13. This stoppin 165 is carried by a slide 166 which is slidable in ways 167 in theframe and which is acted on by suitable springs 168. This slide isconnected to one end of a lever 169 pivoted to the frame at 170. Thelever is normally held in its .inoperative position shown in Fig. 2 bymeans of a locking lever 171 which is pivoted at 1-72 and which is actedon by a spring 173. Then the lockingl lever 171 is released from lockingengagement with the lever 169 then the springs'168 will move the slide166 toward the left, thus withdrawing the stop pin 165 from engagementwith the tail v164 of the clutch dog and the latter will automaticallycome into aetion to clutch the pulley 155 to the member 185 therebyrotating the eccentric 154.

The locking'member 171 is actuated to release the lever 169 by a camprojection 174 disposed that just as the cam 22 completes its return atthe end of the sewing cycle the' member 171 will be released thusautomatically coupling the pulley 155 to the mechanism for operatinglthe buttonhole cutter.l

Theclutch by which the pulley 155 is c0nnected to its buttonhole cuttingmechanism is a one-revolution clutch Aso that it will be disengagedafter the cutter has made one' stroke. For this purpose the sleeve 162is provided with a cam surface 17 5 which is adapted toengage a pin 176carried by the lever 169 thereby to returned said' lever to the iullline position .shown in Fig. 2 and to bring the stop pin 165 into thepath of movement of the tail 164 of the clutch dog. As

the clutch dog completes its first rotation, therefore, its tail willengage the stop pin 165 and said dog will 4be thrown into itsinoperative position thus unclutching the sleeve 162 from the pulley155.

177 represents a stop dog pivoted at 178 to a bracket 201 secured to theframe 1 and vacted on by a springI 179 which co-operates vment in saidsleeve after it has been brought to rest. By thus holding-the sleeverigidly from backward movement the clutch dog will be held in itsinoperative position out of the path of travel of the clutch shoulder. Asimilar device in the form of a. stop dog 180 is employed to preventrecoil movement of the member 118 after the shaft 14 has been brought torest. This stop dog 180 is pivoted at 285 and is adapted to engage ashoulder 181 formed on the member 118. It is acted on by a spring 284and is provided with a tail 283 which is situated to be engaged by anarm 282 extending laterally from the control lever 127. This arm 282serves to release the dog 180 when the lever 127 is shifted to clutchthe drivingI pulley 113 to the shaft 14.

It sometimes happens that the thread breaks during the stitching on abuttonhole. In order to prevent the buttonhole cutter from operatingunder these conditions I have provided means whereby the operator mayhold the lever 169 in the `position shown in Fig. 2 even after the lever171 has been tripped. Such means is in the form of a spring-pressedplunger 196, the inner end 195 of which operates in a bearing 194 and`when the plunger is pushed inwardly by the operator said end will engagethe projection 193 on the end of the lever 169 and thus prevent thelatter from operating when t-he lever 171 trips. With this attachment,

therefore, the operator "can complete the.

cycle of operations after the thread breaks except for cutting thebuttonhole.

I/Vhile I have herein illustrated a selected embodiment ofmy invention Ido not wish to be limited to the constructional features shown.

.I claim:

l. In a buttonholeV sewingl machine, the l ing formed.

2. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans movable only 1n the direction of the length of the [barringstitches at the end of the buttonhole,

said stitch-forming mechanism `includingan oscillatory needle carrler,and means to e maintain the center of oscillation of'the i formed.

needle carrier at all times in the center line of the stitches beingformed.

3. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans movable only in the direction of the length of the lbuttonholestitch-forming mechanism arI ranged to form the edge stitches along theside of the `buttonhole and barring stitches at the end of vthebuttonhole, said stitchforming mechanism including an oscillatory needlehar carrier, and means to maintain the center of oscillation of theneedle bar carrier in the -centerlineof the edge stitches as they areformed and in the center line ofthe buttonhole as the barring stitchesare formed.

4. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism constructed toJ form edge stitches along the side of thebuttonhole d barringsti-tches at the ends of the buttonhole, saidstitchforming mechanism including an oscillatory needle bar carrier, ofmeans to shift the needle bar carrier laterally and to maintain it insuch position as the stitches are formed that the center of oscillationof said carrier is in the centerof each stitch as it is formed.

5. In a buttonhole sewing machine- -the combination with stitch-formingmech ism' constructed to form edge stitches at the sides of thebuttonhole and barring stitches at the end of the buttonhole slit.` saidstitch-forming mechanism lncluding an oscillatory needle bar carrier,and'me'ans to shift the needle bar carrier bodily thereb to maintainthecenter of oscillation on t at side of the buttonhole slit on whichthe edge stitches alle being formed and while they are being formed, andin the center line of the buttonhole while the barring stitches arebeing 6. In a fbuttonhole sewing machine, j the combination withwork-holding means, of"

stitch-forming `mechanism constructed to form 'edge stitches atthe sidesof the buttonhole and barring stitches at the ends of the buttonhole,said stitch-forming mechanism `including an oscillatory needle barcarrier, v

means to produce a relative feeding movement between the stitch-feedingmechanismand work-holding means, said needle bar carrier being mountedfor bodily movement transversely to the direction of feeding movement, atoggle lever device by which the needle bar carrier is given itstransverse movement, and means controlling the toggle lever device tomaintain the center of oscillation of they carrier in the center line ofthe stitches being formed.

the edge stitches onthe buttonhole and also barring stitches, saidstitch-forming mechanism including an oscillatory needle bar carrier,means to produce a relative feeding movement between the stitch-formingmechanism and work-holding means, said needle bar carrier being movablein a direction transversely to the feeding movement, a toggle .leverdevice for shifting the needle bar carrier laterally, and meanscontrolling the toggle lever device to lmaintain automatic'ally thecenter4 of oscillation of the needle bar carrier in the center line ofthe stitches being formed. l

-8. Ina buttonhole sewing machine, the combination With Work-holdingmeans, of stitch-forming mechanism arranged to form the edge stitches onthe buttonhole and also barring stitches, said stitch-forming mechanismincluding an oscillatory needle bar carrier, means to produce a relativefeeding movement between the stitch-forming mechanisni and. work-holdingmeans, said needle bar carrier being movable in a directiontransversely' to the feedin lmovement, a ,toggle lever device forshitting the needle bar carrier laterally, and means controlling Vthetoggle lever device to maintain the center of oscillation of the needlebar carrier in the center line of the edge stitches as they are formedand in the center line of the buttonhole asgthe barring stitches areformed.

9. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans, of a single "needle stitch-forming mechanism and means to actuatethe latter to form edge stitches along the edge of the buttonhole and'barring stitches of different lengths, all of which are centrallylocated with reference to the buttonhole.

10. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans, of stitch-forming mechanism by which the .edge

stitches are formed on first one side of the y buttonhole andthen on theother and means to actuate the latter to forml edge stitches along theed e of the buttonhole, and barring stitches of ifferent lengths withthe center of each barring stitch in the center line of y center of-leach barring stitch in the center line of the buttonhole.l

12. In a buttonhole sewing machine, they combination withwork-holdmg'means, of.

tov

Cil

lstitch-forming mechanism including an oscillatoryl needle bar carrier,means to give said carrier a predetermined amplitude of oscillationduring the formation of the edge stitches and part`\of the barringstitches, and a greater amplitude of movement during the formation ofall the remaining barring stitches.

14. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans, of stitch-forming mechanism including an oscillatory needle barcarrier, means to give said carrier a predetermined amplitude ofoscillation during the formation of the edge stitches and part of thebarring stitches, and a greater amplitude of movement during theformation of the remaining barring stitches, and means to maintain thecenter of oscillation in the center of the buttonhole while the barringstitches are being formed.

l5. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans, of stitch-forming mechanism including an oscillatory needle barcarrier, means to give said carrier a predetermined amplitude ofoscillation during the formation vof the edge stitches and part of thebarring stitches, and a greater amplitude of movement during theformation of the remaining barring stitches, and means to maintain thecenter of oscillation of the needle bar carrier in the center line ofthe stitches being formed. I

16. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with work-holdingmeans, of stitch-forming mechanism including an 0S- cillatory needle barcarrier, means to give said carrier a predetermined amplitude ofoscillation during the formation of the edge stitches and part of thebarring stitches, and a greater amplitude of movement during theformation-of the remaining barring stitches, and means to maintain thecenter of oscillation of the needle bar carrier in the center -lineofthe edge stitches as they are formed and inthe center line ofthebuttonhole as the barring stitches are formed.

17. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism including an oscillatory needle bar carrier, of means tooscillate said carrier, automatic means to increase'the amplitude ofoscillation at each end" of the buttonhole thereby to form long barringstitches, and means to shift the needle bar carrier bodily and therebymaintain the center of oscillation of said needle bar carrier in thecenter line of the stitches being formed regardless of the length ofsaid stitches.

18. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism and work-holding means, of a cam controlling the operationthereof whereby both edge stitches and barring stitches are formed, saidcam having ratchet teeth and stop teeth, of an oscillatory membercarrying a feeding pawl which co-operates with the ratchet teeth, and astop pawl co-operating with the stop teeth, said feeding pawl and stoppawl co-operating to feed the cam intermittently and to bring it to restat the end of each feeding movement.

19. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanismand workholding means, of a cam by which the operation of the machine iscontrolled, of a pawland-ratehet device for feeding the camintermittently, and means co-operating with said paWl-and-ratchet deviceto bring the cam positively to rest at the end of cach forward movement.

20. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanismand workholding-means movable relative to each other, of a cam by whichsuch relative movement and the operation of the machine is controlled, apawl-and-ratchet device for feeding the cam intermittently and a stoppawl co-operating with said'pawl-and-ratchet device to bring the campositively to rest at the .end of each forward step.

21. In a sewing machine, thefcombination with stitch-forming mechanismand workholding means having a relative movement, of a cam by which suchrelative movement vand the operation ofthe machine is controlled, apawl-and-ratchet device for feeding the cam intermittently, stoppingmeans co-operating with said pawl-and-ratchet de- 'vice to bring the campositively to rest at the end ofeach forward movement, and

means to render the stopping means inoperative during the backwardmoven'lent of the feeding pawl. l

22. In a sewing machine, the combination with 'stitch-forming mechanism,of a cam controlling the operation thereof, whereby both edge stitchesand barring stitches are formed, a friction feed device forintermittently feeding the cam during the formation of the edgestitches, a pawl-a'nd-ratchet feed device for feeding said cam at ahigher rate of speed during the formation of the barring stitches, andmeans co-operating with the pawl-and-ratchet device to bring said campositively to rest at the end of each forward step and While the barringstitches are being formed.

23. In a vbuttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-formingmechanism, of a cam Vcontrolling the latter so that both

